Surfing isn’t just about paddling out, popping up and catching waves. Sure, now that you know more about how to read the surf forecast, this sets the stage, but truly fun surf sessions also come from knowing how to read the waves. We will show you the important theory on how to read the waves: The different types of surf breaks, the anatomy of the wave and 4 simple steps to read the waves like a pro!
While surfers adapt to different conditions, they usually do have a preference for the type of break. Knowing the different surf breaks helps you to choose the right spot for your skill level, experience and mood. Here are the three main breaks you can surf:
A beach break is where the waves break over a sandy bottom, which means there is only sand. With sandbars being the ‘architects’ of these waves, beach breaks are good for surfers who are just starting and learning how to pop up and keep balance. During our 5-day Learn To Surf Program we’ll also be practising on the beach break at Double Six in Bali. The challenge of a beach break? The sand is always moving, which means that the formation and quality of the waves can change a lot from swell to swell.
These breaks form over underwater reefs, which create a consistent and often powerful base for the wave to rise. Reefs can generate hollow sections within the wave called barrels, a surfer’s dream. Since reefs don’t move, the waves are easier to read than a beach break. However, reef breaks can also be unforgiving, with shallow areas and sharp corals or stones being a risk of getting injured.
Shaped by headlands or rock formations, point breaks are the crème de la crème of the surfing world. Point breaks are spots where geographically speaking the waves break in a point of land. These breaks channel the swell’s energy along a long stretch of coastline, creating long, peeling rides – another surfer’s holy grail! Imagine a wave that seems to go on forever, offering endless opportunities for tricks and turns.
Beyond these three main categories, there are also variations like point-reef breaks (a combination of reef and point break) and shore breaks (waves that break directly on the shore), each break offering its own unique set of pros and cons.
4 different types of waves can be generated by swells depending on the type of break and bank formation:
These are the classic waves that most people imagine when they think of surfing. They break consistently in one direction, either to the left (left-hander) or right (right-hander).
Regular-footed surfers typically prefer right-handed waves, while goofy-footed surfers prefer lefts. This is because your dominant foot is positioned at the back of the board for better control, and it naturally positions you facing the breaking wave.
This wave breaks evenly in two directions, creating a rideable “shoulder” on the left and right sides of the peak. This offers the chance for two surfers to catch the same wave (as long as they share the space respectfully!).
Not all waves are created the same, sometimes waves will be a ‘close-out’. This wave doesn’t offer a rideable shoulder – it simply collapses on itself all at once which creates an unstable and sometimes dangerous whitewater section.
Now that we know more about the different kinds of breaks and waves, let’s get ourselves familiar with the different parts of a wave. Think of it as learning the anatomy of your own body:
The highest point of the wave and where it starts to break. Identifying the peak is crucial for positioning yourself to catch the wave at the right moment.
The smooth, unbroken section of the wave that you’ll ride. The ideal face offers a clean and inviting area for manoeuvres.
The transitioning area between the face and the unbroken part of the wave.
The top, curling section of the breaking wave. This is where the wave’s power is concentrated, and where barrels are formed.
This refers to the section of the wave where the breaking wave forms a hollowed-out area. This pocket is the ideal position for a surfer to ride the wave, offering both power and stability.
This is the area where the breaking wave (the lip) crashes down onto the water below. The impact zone can be quite powerful and turbulent, especially on larger waves. Surfers need to be aware of the impact zone and avoid getting caught in it, as it can lead to avoidable wipeouts.
The foamy, turbulent section of the wave after it breaks. While not ideal for riding as an advanced surfer, whitewater is a beginner’s friend. Because it’s gentler and less powerful than unbroken waves, it’s a safe and forgiving environment to practice paddling, balance, and pop-ups. During our 5-day learn-to-surf program, we’ll be practising our skills in the whitewater part of the wave. Additionally, whitewater can sometimes be used for paddling back out to the lineup (the area where surfers wait for waves).
Reading the waves of the ocean will come with practice, paying attention to the ocean while you’re on the shore preparing for surfing, and while you’re waiting for the set while being in the line-up.
Watch how the wave breaks – where is the shoulder and where is the peak? Is it clean and peeling, or does it close out (collapse) quickly? Knowing where the wave breaks will help you to position yourself when you want to paddle for the wave.
The wave’s face and shoulder determine the ride’s intensity. Steeper faces offer more power and speed but are harder to balance. Gentler faces are perfect for beginners.
The shoulder, where the unbroken wave meets whitewater, is crucial. A defined shoulder is perfect to take off on, a mushy shoulder makes it difficult to control your board.
Observe the flow of wave selection. Often, surfers take turns based on position in the lineup. Avoid “dropping in” and “snaking”. Learning about surf etiquette helps you to understand these unwritten rules and ensure you and others have a safe and fun experience.
The ocean communicates non-stop, so don’t zone out! Keep your eyes out for the next set of waves, surfers around you and potential changes in wind or tide.
