You’ve decided to trade the land for the waves and start your surfing journey! Awesome choice. But surfing isn’t just about having the best technique and physical power; it also requires a solid foundation of theoretical knowledge. Understanding the ocean’s ever-changing moods is key to knowing where to be and when catching waves safely and maximising the fun. So before you grab your surfboard and hit the waves, there’s an essential skill to learn: understanding surf forecasts, the waves and the swell.
You can think of a surf forecast as your personal ocean teacher, translating the language of swells, wind, and tides into a clear picture of the conditions you can expect when you go out for a surf. Understanding these key factors will empower you to find the perfect waves for your skill level and create a nice and rewarding surfing experience.
At first glance, the forecast page can look like a terrifying combination of arrows and numbers. But once you know how to read it, you’ll benefit from it a lot!
Imagine tossing a stone into a still pond – the ripples that spread outward are similar to ocean swells. Swells are generated by distant storms, creating rolling waves that travel vast distances before reaching the shore. When you read a surf forecast, pay attention to these swell details:
This indicates the overall wave size, typically measured in feet (1ft = 0.3m). Ocean buoys measure the swell height. The NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) is an American organisation responsible for deploying and operating weather buoys to collect data, such as wave height, swell period and direction, wind speed and direction, air and water temperature, and barometric pressure.
Beginners might feel comfortable starting with waves in the 2-4 foot range. However, this isn’t a rule that’s set in stone. A powerful 2-foot swell with a long period can be just as challenging as a weak 4-foot swell.
The swell height is measured from the peak (highest point) of the wave to the base, and the seconds between one peak (to have an average) and the next using historical and real-time data gathered from the offshore buoys.
Swells can be categorised as primary, secondary, and even tertiary swells, but they rarely influence one specific surf spot at the same time. This happens when different storms in different locations of the ocean are generating swells that will arrive in a particular location.
Let’s keep it simple: The primary swell is the one with the greatest potential to reach the specific coastline you’re interested in, and it’s usually the one with the strongest characteristics (height, period, direction). The secondary swell is like a backup dancer, it might be present but plays a less significant role in shaping the waves. In some cases, if the primary and secondary swells come from similar directions, they can even combine to create even larger waves!
This refers to the time it takes between the arrival of two consecutive wave crests on a fixed point in the ocean. The general rule is that a longer period (around 10-15 seconds) generally translates to smoother, more powerful waves. Short periods (around 5-7 seconds) often caused by local winds, result in choppy, weaker and unpredictable waves.
When the swell period is 16+ seconds, it’s an extremely powerful period, and only certain surf breaks can hold such a strong swell. This swell period can create big waves, with high quality, and is not safe for beginners due to its power.
This tells you where the swell originates from, this depends specifically on the geography of the surf spot you want to surf. Ideally, you want swells coming from a deep part of the ocean and hitting the beach straight on. This creates the most powerful and consistent waves. Swells hitting at an angle can create uneven peaks and shorter rides.
Take Bali, for example, our surfer’s paradise. Here, the best swell direction often comes from the southwest, originating from the deep waters of the South Indian Ocean. These swells hit the beaches head-on, creating long, powerful rides ideal for experienced surfers. However, if you’re a beginner, spots like Kuta Beach with a more sheltered bay can offer smaller waves with a more forgiving angled swell.
Many surf reports use terms like “groundswell” and “wind swell” to describe different types of swells. Groundswells are generally larger, long-period swells generated by powerful storms far out at sea. They tend to create clean, predictable waves. Wind Swells are smaller, shorter-period swells created by local wind patterns. They can be choppier and less ideal for surfing.
The type of break also plays a role in how swell direction affects your surfing experience. Here’s a quick breakdown:
Reef Breaks: These breaks often favour swells coming straight on. However, depending on the specific reef structure, angled swells can sometimes create unique barrels or sections.
Beach Breaks: Beach breaks can handle a wider range of swell directions, but waves tend to be less consistent. Straight-on swells create the most powerful peaks, while angled swells can result in shorter, choppier rides.
Point Breaks: These breaks, formed by headlands or rock formations, often require a specific swell direction to function properly. The ideal direction will channel the swell’s energy along the point, creating long, peeling rides.
Same as tides, the wind can significantly impact your surfing experience, acting as either a valuable ally or a formidable foe. The wind speed can be measured in knots (kt), kilometres per hour (km/h), and miles per hour (mph). In general, there are three main types of winds:
Offshore Winds: Blowing from the land towards the ocean (offshore), these winds are a surfer’s dream. They smooth out the wave face, creating clean, glassy conditions – ideal for both beginners and experienced surfers alike. Offshore winds can also push the wave face steeper, making the wave more hollow and exciting for advanced surfers.
Onshore Winds: Blowing from the ocean towards the land (onshore), these winds can turn waves choppy and difficult to ride. They disrupt the smooth flow of the wave face, creating whitecaps and a bumpy surface. Onshore winds can also create strong currents, making paddling to the line up a challenge.
Sideshore Winds: Blowing parallel to the beach, side winds can have varying effects depending on the strength and direction. They might slant the wave face and make it uneven, leading to a less than ideal surfing experience.
Tides are the rise and fall of sea levels caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and are also caused by the Earth and Moon orbiting one another. There are 2 cycles that influences the tides:
Spring Tides: When there is a new moon or full moon you’ll have a spring tide. With the moon and the sun roughly aligned, the tides on Earth are larger than usual.
Neap Tides: Neap tides refer to a period of moderate tides when the Moon and the Sun are at right angles to the Earth. As a result, the high tides are not too high, and the low tides are not too low.
But how do the tide changes affect the Surf Conditions? The rise and fall of tides play an important role in shaping the waves for your surfing experience. High tides, with increased water depth, generally create softer, less powerful waves. This offers a forgiving canvas to practise pop-ups and turns. However, high tides can also submerge reefs at some breaks, making waves less defined. Beach breaks might become mushy and offer less rideable waves.
On the other hand, low tides expose reefs and underwater features, leading to steeper and more powerful waves. This excites experienced surfers who are looking for a challenge. However, low tide also exposes shallow areas that create obstacles to avoid. The ideal tide level for your surf session depends on your skill level, the specific surf spot, and the type of waves you’re looking for.
Surfers often discuss the concept of a “tide push” or “tidal push” This idea is that an incoming tide (rising water level) pushes more water towards the beach, potentially increasing wave size and power. Creating bigger waves. While there might be some truth to this, it’s not a straightforward cause-and-effect relationship. The impact of a tide push depends on several factors, including the bottom topography and the angle of the incoming swell. In some locations with very abrupt changes in underwater contours waves can completely disappear during certain tide heights.
However, understanding the concept of a tide push can be helpful when considering your surf session. Combining a rising tide with a medium swell might lead to a gradual increase in wave size throughout your session. On the other side, a dropping tide with a large swell might see waves peak in size and power. By factoring in the tide push along with other forecast elements, you can make more informed decisions about the timing of your surf session!
Now that you have a grasp of swell, wind, and tides, let’s explore how they work together to create the perfect surfing conditions:
Remember: Every surf spot is unique and different. Some are better on high tides, some low, some outgoing, some incoming, and some are generally unaffected. While we provide you with a general framework and the basics of the theory, it’s crucial to research the specific characteristics of your chosen surf spot. Figuring out what works for your favourite spots comes with experience. Besides the internet, local surf communities and experienced surfers are great resources when it comes to understanding the insights of your favourite break.
So, reading surf forecasts empowers you to make good decisions about where, when, and under what conditions to hit the waves. It allows you to find the perfect match for your skill level. So, the next time you check the forecast, don’t be intimidated by all the numbers, figures and colours – it just takes a little practice!
At Surf School In Bali, our experienced surf guides will not only guide you through the physical surf basics during our 5-day Learn To Surf program but also help you decode surf forecasts and understand how to choose the perfect conditions for your skill level.
Are you ready to hit those waves?
